Sewing machine



SEWING MACHINE Filed Jan. v11, 19143 2 sneetshm 1 Patented Nov. 20, 1923.

UNITED STATES APATENT OFFICE.

JERSEY.

AssIGNoE 'ro UNITED sHoE nm. JERSEY, A CORPORATION or NEW SEWING MACHINE.

.Application led January 11, 1919. Serial No. 270,736.

To Il wiom it may concern:

Befit known that I, JOSEPH FossA, a citizen ofthe -United States, residing at Danversfinl the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new andllseflll Improvements in Sewing Machines; and Ido hereby declare the follow- 'ing tovberasfull, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others maIl-and use 'the same.

"" V'e'invention relates to overseam sewing lnacliilnnes,V and more particularly to the mechanism for laying'r a stay cord within the seam on the under side of the work.

4The 'invention is designed primarily for use in machines for sewing overseams about eye-ended buttonholes, although applicable to other -overseam machines The throat.

platel fa buttonhole sewing machine of the a ove'type lis usually provided Awith a guide through which a stay cord is directed into the range' of action of the stitch forming mechan'islnso that during the sewing the Ycord"1" ;-,"""laid within the seam on the under A'Side'Qthe,work. In sewing' a series of spacedzbuttonholes the stay cord usually leadsf'from. one hole to another, or is severeddfheld with the under thread between 3 successive buttonhole sewing operations. In

eitherifc'a'se there is an undesirable waste ofl acordlx'which may add materially to the cost of produc-tion.

Th'hmechanism 'of the present invention avoids unnecessary waste of cord by cutting frmthecord supply a length of cord substantially the lengthyotthe seam to be sewed andla` ing; it witlipr'the seam on the under side o the 4work The cutter which cuts the length ofcord from the cord supply is pref- .erablyflocated back of the guide in the throat'plate through which the cord leads to the-seam, and is preferably actuatedto sever ,the cord at such a point during the fromjf'the cord will substantially reglister witlifthe end of the finished seam. After the cordissevered, and before or at the ginnin"g o f the next sewingI operation, theVA end ofthe 'cord supply is projectednthroughgf the guide in the throat plate, so that the y l y i ment with the guide 14 in the throat plate.

cord -will be lai in :the succeeding seam.

A .mechanismembodying the lpreferred form fthe'invention is shown in the drawings-, in,which'-Figure l i's a transverse sec skilled' in the art to which it appertains to operatein sewing an overseam.

sewing'jthat the end of the piece severedyincline tional elevation on line 1-1, Fig. 2, showmg so much of a buttonhole sewing machine as is necessaryY to illustratethe application of the present invention thereto; Fig. 2 is a plan view. with the work supporting plates G0 removed. and the parts of the under sewing mechanism which is carried by the turretMv omitted; Fig. El is a similar View showing the parts in a different position; Figs. 4 and 5 are detail plan views showingr the cord feedingv segment in different positions; and` Fig. G is a' detailperspective view of the cord guiding and cutting` block.

In the drawings the invention is shown embodied in a button'hole sewing machine having the general construction and mode of operation of the machineshown and described in Patent. No. \1,063,880. June 3, 1913. The stitch formingr mechanism of this machine comprises an upper needle 2, an under needle 4 and a looper 6 which co`= A y The upper needle is mounted in a rotary support, and the .under needle and looper are mounted in a rotary turret 8 which also carries the so throat plate 10. The work is carried in a clamp. the work siipporting plates of which are indicated at 12, and the work clamp is fed and the supports for the upper and um der 'thread mechanism are rotated during the sewing to form an overseam about an eye-ended but-tonhole, as fully described in the above patent.

The mechanism for severing a length of stay cord from the cord supply, and la ing'ao it within the seam on the under side o tho."-A work, comprises a. cord uide 14 .formattingthe throat plate, and corverin and feedv ing mechanism arranged back o the'guideV and operating to sever from the cord supply 05' a length of cord substantiallylequal tothe" 'l length of the seam,'and to-project the end' of the cord supply through the guide in-'r'f'f' the throat plate and into-the range of action of the stitch formingmechanism. As shown, this mechanism comprises a cord gidin r and cutter' block 16 secured in lanpostion upon the bracket 18 in'- which the throat plate is secured. The block is provided at its -rean'end -with a. guiding lug' 2O and a guideway 22 arranged in aligny The stay cord leads through a guide 24 on theturret, aroundy the guide lug-20, and through the guideway 22 to the throat plate. no

the sewing of a'butto'nhole therotatio'n olf tracted .The biocr is' is previas@ with a grin 2e' ar.;

ranved at one side of the mouth ofthe Vdany-22, the upper 'edge ofv which co` operates with a cutter 'blade 28 in severing th-cord between the mouth ofthe guideway and the throat plate. I The cutter blade is secured on one arm of a. cutter lever-.30,

.which is :mounted on a studv'32'and is provided with a second arm arranged tobe engaged by. a cam 34 on the'turret-bracket.` The cutter lever is held yieldingly in reo'sition by a spring' 36 coiled about the studi? astop pin 38 whic passesthrou'gh aslot in the lever. At a predeterminedpointdurinv the turret carries thecutt'er lever against the ca'm- 34,' sc that the cutter is operated-'to l' severthe cord back of the 'guide in the the en with the -en through thev guide in the thro'atf'plate into the range o'f action ofthe stitch .f ormin mechanism,o that it will be properly lai within the nextsucceedingseam, comprises a cord' feeding" se ent40 provided with- -teethon its perip ery" against which .the

' gearjsegment A46. The v"segment 46 is cord Ais pressed segment is .pivoted at one; side of the block 16, and its hub is provided'- with a gear 'segment '44 en aged bythe' teeth of a segment' 46 which igs mounted on a stud 48' on the turret. The segment '46 vis held in its advanced position-indicated in Fig.. 5 by a' spriln 50-.coiled about the stud 48 andj .connecte with the hub'of the rovided withan. .arm 52 which projectsinto position'to be engaged b a cam-54 on `the turret bracket. During t e final rotation of the turret, Aas 'a' button ole is completed, the arm v52 rides up the cam 54, so that the feeding segment is retracted into theposition'indicated in Fig. 4. As the turret starts to rotate at the .beginning of the, next sewinoperation,.and before the initial stitch of't e seam is fori'ned on the under side of the work, the arm 52 rides off. the cam 54, so that the feeding segment is quickly advanced into the position indicated in Fig. 5, thus feeding, the cord for-I ward and projecting its' end through 'the iide 14 in the throat late'so that it will covered and attached to the under side of the work by the initialstitches of the overseam; Thecord will nowbe laid in the seam on the underside of the work in the usual'fmanner, the feed of the work drawing the cord through the guide in the throat plate and from the cord supply until the'` and.' lits osition is L determined by '.:by a. spring. resser plate The feeding P 35.

cutter is again 'as above describe oierated to. sever thecord A length of cord substantiallyI equa1 `-in .l

length to the len severed 'from the cord supplyand laid in' .the seam on the underside of -the work and .unnecessary waste of. stay cord is avoided. B `proper adjustmentl orv -ar.

rangement o the partsthe ends of the cord may be caused to extend more or 'less be:

'during' each. b uttonhole swingpperation,

yond the ends of the seam, or tq 'be/comi.

-pletely covered thereby.

While't is preferred to employ thefslpe' shown and described in 'em vention-'in a machine of the .patent above referred to, it will befunderstood that this- 'struction and arrangementjof parts in` the machinein which lit, is to be'e'mbodied.

What is claimed is :T- l' 1. A sewing machine, having, in. combination, stitch forming mechanism for. sewing' an overseam,. a throat'plate below the work'provided with a. stay cord guide,

means for cuttingl thecord back of the guide; and means for -projecting the end' of. the supplyfcord 'through 'fthe `guide'.

2. A.'sewing machine, having, in'com-.g

bination, stitch forming mechanism 'for sewingan overseam, a throat plate below ,the work provided witha stay c ord guide, acord cutter,.automatically. acting mechanis'm for actuating the` cutter during the sewingto sever a lengthb of cord substant-ially equal to that of the overseam, and

automatically acting meansl forprojecting theiend of the supply cord through.t he' guide'in the throat late. 3. A sewing mac ine, having, nation, stitch forming mechanisin'for. sewcomhil.l

ing an overseam including upper and under thread mechanism, a turret below the work carrying the under threadA mechanism, a;

stay cord guide on the turret, a cord cutter.

back of theguide, and. cord feeding means for projectingthe end of 'the supply cord through the" guide.

4..A sewing machine, having, incoinbi-4 nation, rotary stitch 'forming mechanism for sewing an overseam including a rotary support, means on. the support or layin .a stay cord within-the se'am, and a cor cutter on the support o erated` by the ro tatioiof the support'` uring the sewing.

5.. nation, .rotary stitch forminor mechanism for sewing 'an overseam including support, meansA on `the support r llaying a stay` cord. within the seam, a cord cutter.

sewin .-machine, havin in combi.-

a rotary A on the support operated by thev rotation oi' the'support during the sewing, and a cord feeder on the support operated by the rotation of the support.-

6.' A sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism for sewing an overseam, a rotary support for the stitch forming mechanism, means rotating with the Support for laying the stay cord Within the seam, means rotating with the support for severing a length of cord substantially equal to that of the overseam, and means rotating with the4 su port for advancing the end of the cord supp y into the range of riction of the stitch forming mechanism.

7. A sewing machine,'having, in combination, ,stitch forming mechanism for sewing an overseam, a. rotary support for the stitch forming mechanism, a cord guide on the snpport for laying a stay corti within the seam,

. means on the support for severing the cord back of the guide, and means on `the support for projecting the cord end through the guide into the range of action of the stitch forming mechanism.

8. A sewing machine, having, in combination,rotary stitch'forming mechanism for sewing an overseam, including a rotary support, means on the supportifor laying a stay cord Within the seam, and` a. cord cutter on the support;

9. A sewing machine, having, lin combination, rotary stitch forming mechanism, mechanism for f ing` aoverseam, including a rotary support', a stay cord guide on the support, acord cutter on the support, and cord feedin means' on the support for projecting the ,end of the cord through the guide. Y

'10. A. sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism for sewing an overseam, a. throat plate below lthe, work, means for layinur a stay cord within the seam on the same sire as the throat plate, auto matically acting means for severing a length of cord substantiallyequal to that-oit the overseam and automatically .acting means for advancing the free end of the cord snpply into the range of action of the stitch forming mechanism.

1l. A sewing machine having, in combina- .severing the cord. hack of the guide, and

means for projecting the corel end through the guide into the range of action of the stitch forming mechanism.

12. A sewingl machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism for sewing' an oversenan, a throat plate below Athe work, means for laying a stay cord within the seam on the same side of the work as the throat late, automatically acting means for sever`- ing the cord during the sewing, and`auto maticall. 'acting means for advancing the end of tie cord supply into the of action of the stitch formingl mechanism.

13. A sewingr machine having, in comhination stitch forming and work feeding Yi'nerhanism for sewing an overseam about a ionttonhole, a throat plate below the work, and mechanism for severing from a corti supply prior to the completion of the seam a length of stay cord subs fant-ialiv the iengtn of the oversealn and for laying it within the seam on the same side of the work as the throat plate.

lei. A sewing machine having, in comhination, stitch forming and Work feeding mechanism for sewing a pre-determine@ length of overseam, a throat plate below the work, and automaticaliy acting mechanism for severing yfrom a cord supply prior to the completion of the seam a. iength of stay cord substantially the iength ci the overseam, and for laying it within the seam on the same side o?? the work as the throat plate 

